Frogeyes for a midget

Now, I've always been keen on the look of the Sprites famous frog eyes.  In fact I was looking for a Sprite when I bought the current Midget. In the end the premium was just too much and I'd only have ended up fitting a 1275cc (or bigger) engine, disk brakes, etc.  In the spirit of the Frogeye Sprite, and for additional rally style, I decided to fit some enormous spot lights to ABW.

After some research, then searching, I selected a pair of seven inch spot lights from Sim. These are very similar to the “Oscar” lamps from Cibié, which were popular on rally cars in the 1960s and 1970s (and are still available today). The Oscar is a circular auxiliary driving lamp specifically designed to combine excellent performance. A distinguishing feature is the classic design with a chrome ring.

SIM seven inch spot lights

Having removed the front (and rear bumpers) – see previous article ("De-bumper or not de-bumper?") – the front bumper mounts were the obvious place to mount the lights.  It took several attempts to manufacture a bracket stiff enough to offer adequate support for the large lights.  L-shaped stainless angle brackets were bolted direct to the bumper mounting bolts with a half inch hole facing upwards for mounting the spot lights.

Having fitted the lights, the next task was to wire them up.  This was reasonably straightforward.  However, because I wanted to use halogen bulbs, which draw a fairly high current, I wanted to utilise a relay and some hefty automotive cable. The relay was a 4 pin, 30 amp item. As an aside, some time ago I purchased some decent ratchet crimping pliers; this is just the job that makes them worth every penny spent.  For those interested in similarly fitting spotlights, the wiring diagram is below.

Spotlight wiring diagram

I chose to power the relay from a source that was already available behind the dashboard from the ignition switch.  Thus the spotlights will only operate with the ignition key switched on.  Alternatively, I could have taken the power from the lighting circuit, or specifically the main beam lighting circuit.  I decided to keep it simple and flexible.

I fitted the new spotlights with halogen bulbs.  The fitting was able to take H4 bulbs.  These are duel element (high and low beam) which is a bit of a waste, since only the high beam is wired for use.  However, the bulbs are readily available and also match the halogen bulbs fitted as a conversion to the Midget's headlamps, which means spares can be reduced.  Wiring the H4 bulb is not entirely obvious - the picture below shows which terminal should connect to which socket on the bulb block connector.

Terminal layout for H4 halogen bulb

I was pleased with the switch holder, which was sourced on e-bay.  This looks from the right period and an amber warning bulb was fitted. I attached the switch holder to a sheet of stainless, bridging from the bulkhead to the lower edge of the steel dashboard.  This enabled me to use existing holes, rather than drilling new ones, which may eventually be in the wrong place. For now I positioned the switch centrally, next to the Brantz rally odometer (see previous article: "Rally trip meter tips").  Setting it back just a little looks best.

Period spot light switch and warning light (centre)

I'm happy with the final result.  The output is pretty bright!  The look is sporty; ready for the next regularity rally. Next job:  rear fog light.

Rally lights fitted - ready for action!

De-bumper or not de-bumper?

Now that is the question!  I have been toying with the idea of decluttering ABW since I bought her almost a year ago.  The car already came with a fast-cam Oscelli engine and Minilite look-alikes.  The addition of some large driving lights and a little more "rallye stylee" finally convinced me that naked was the route. The weight penalty for the bumpers and hangers must be considerable.  I have also struggled to find a decent pair of rear quarter bumpers to replace the existing crinkled chrome, misshapen efforts. And  I could never get them hanging straight either.

Now the purists will no doubt shake their heads and groan at any modifications.

An obvious downside is that I will need to avoid bumping into anything.  Although, I'm far from convinced that the existing heavy ironwork would do anything other than transmit the impact to the chassis and bodywork. I don't intend testing this hypothesis.

At the back I've retained the over-riders; these also serve to hold the number plate illumination.  I have filled the excess holes with some low-profile allen head bolts, with rubber gasket for a waterproof seal.  In time I plan to fit a rear fog warning light and perhaps an auxiliary reversing spotlight.  I may switch to a horizontal rather than square number plate.  Phase 2!

A naked rear!

Around at the front end, I have removed the bumper and used the forward facing bolts to mount some brackets for spotlights and to locate the front number plate. Fitting the driving lights to my satisfaction took some time - more on that later!

Safety Fast front end.

However, I am still on the hunt for some decent replacement rear quarter bumpers and I have carefully stored the front bumper and various fixings.  I do not think the existing items are good enough to re-chrome, but if I can find some quality original items I will consider refurbishment. There is always a chance I will want to change my mind, so I am keeping the options open.

Anyway, what happens to all those bumpers - especially the rubber ones - that are removed?

In the mean time, naked is the way!

Amps vs. Volts?

Having had problems with battery discharge I decided it would be advantageous to fit some sort of gauge to test the performance of the electrical system.  In any case, period accessories look great!  The only question was which instrument to choose?

In a fight, who would win?  Amps or Volts?
Ammeters are widely fitted to classic MGs and Minis, with a variety of indicator ranges (for example, +/- 45 amps).  But what does the ammeter show?  These measure the electrical current flowing through the circuit.  Typically they are wired in series with the load.  This means that the current flows through the ammeter itself, requiring beefy, heavy duty cables connecting to the device to withstand the potentially high currents. "ABW" has been retrofitted with an alternator.  The electrical current is therefore even higher than might be expected from the original dynamo system.

Whilst useful for measuring the drain under load (for example, from head lights), the car already has a red ignition warning light, which gives a good indication when charging is not occurring.

Voltmeters are connected across a current load and measure electrical "pressure".  This makes fitting a simpler proposition, because they use standard car wiring.

The voltmeter principally provides information about the status of the battery. With normal alternator / voltage-regulator functioning, the voltmeter will read around 14v, falling to 12-13v as the load on the alternator increases (for example, when lights, wipers, and heater blower are used together).  If the alternator fails, then the voltage reading will start to drop as the battery takes on the work and begins to discharge.  Ratings below 12v, particularly on starting, can also indicator a problem with one of the cells on the battery.  A high reading indicates that the alternator is failing to regulate output and possibly cooking the battery and wiring loom.

Given the relative difficulty in fitting an ammeter compared to a voltmeter, and the information that can be gleaned from each device, the latter seems the obvious first choice.  A scan on the internet confirms this opinion.

Smiths voltmeters
MGs were originally fitted with Smiths gauges and I'm keen to keep that period look and feel - so Smiths it is!
The Smiths voltmeter gauges work by internal bi-metal resistance, similar to fuel and temperature gauges.  Like the fuel gauge, the voltmeter does not respond instantly, but the needle climbs slowly when power is supplied.  The gauge draws some power, so is best connected to the "ignition on" circuit with the other gauges.

Being standard on many British cars, especially popular BMC models, a wide variety of suitable 2" gauge designs were sold over the years, some still available new today.  These are variously marked "volts", "battery", "battery condition", or a combination there of!

Various Smiths voltmeter designs

Sourcing a Smiths voltmeter
Several firms supply new or refurbished units.  Perhaps the most extensive range is available from the Gauge Shop (http://www.thegaugeshop.com), who specialise in period Smiths and Jaeger gauges.  Speedy Cables (http://www.speedycables.com) are manufacturers and suppliers of automotive instruments, including Smiths gauges, which are skilfully crafted to the original specifications using the original tools and dies. They also do a cracking business recalibrating speedos.

Being a cheapskate I plumped for ebay!  The result was a rather battered gauge, probably from a mid-70s MGB.  Still it only cost me £7!  Unusually it came complete with a bulb and fixing bracket.

I hunted down some very useful instructions entitled "Smiths - The Care of Instruments" on PDF from Mk1 Performance Conversions (http://mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk), a website dedicated to early Minis. The guide, from 1966, is helpful for a range of instruments.  The voltmeter page is reproduced below, showing a wiring diagram.

From "Smiths - The Care of Instruments", published 1966

The ebay voltmeter has been dismantled, glass polished, and the grot cleaned out.  The face is not perfect, but has come up presentable.  The v-profile bezel was difficult to remove. It is retained with three small tabs.  Ideally the bezel should twist to register with corresponding gaps in the lip of the casing, but some hard caulk material effectively glued the bezel to the body.  Carefully prising two of the tabs up I was able to pull the bezel off.  It has cleaned up reasonably well, with black paint to the inner side coming off with paint brush restorer fluid to reveal clean chrome.

I've reassembled the unit, with a fabricated piece of rubber to seal the glass and bezel.  If the face was perfect, I would invest in a new bezel and new rubber o-ring (all of which are available from several suppliers, for example AES:  http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk).  As it is, I'll probably make do and replace with a better specimen later. Now all I need is a a dashboard panel - more to follow...

Refurbished  Smiths voltmeter